Preventing Frozen Pipes at Cabins & Second Homes in Utah

Winter guide

Why cabins and second homes are at risk

A home that's lived in every day gets checked every day. Someone notices the kitchen is cold, the water pressure is weak or the furnace is making a new noise. A cabin in Samak or Woodland, a second home in Park City or a weekend place in the Heber Valley can go weeks without anyone walking in. In Summit and Wasatch counties, that's long enough for a stretch of below-zero nights, a power outage during a storm or a furnace that quietly quits to freeze a pipe.

The damage usually doesn't show up right away. Ice inside a pipe expands and splits it, but the ice also plugs the split. The water only starts running when the pipe thaws, which might be days later, with nobody there to shut it off.

Where pipes freeze first

Pipes rarely freeze in the middle of a warm house. They freeze where cold air reaches them. In mountain cabins and second homes, the usual suspects are:

Kitchen and bathroom sinks on exterior walls, especially with the cabinet doors closed
Crawl spaces with open or broken vents, gaps around the foundation, or insulation that's fallen down
Bathrooms or kitchens over a garage, or floors that hang out past the foundation below
Hose bibs with a hose still attached, which traps water in the pipe inside the wall
Utility rooms, mudrooms and laundry rooms on the north side of the house or with an exterior door that leaks air
Additions and older cabins that were built for summer use and closed in later, often with less insulation than the rest of the house
Well houses and pump rooms on rural properties, where a small heater or heat lamp is often the only thing keeping the pressure tank from freezing

Before you leave for the season

Keep heat in the house

Leave the heat on and set the thermostat to hold, not to a schedule that drops it lower overnight. Our cabin winterizing guide covers setpoints and the rest of the close-down.
Check the fuel. If the cabin heats with propane, make sure the tank is filled and on a delivery schedule, and that the driveway will be clear enough for the truck.
Open cabinet doors under sinks on outside walls so warm air can reach the pipes.
Leave interior doors open so heat reaches back bedrooms and bathrooms.

Block the cold

Close or cover crawl space vents for the winter if your home's design calls for it, and seal gaps around the foundation where wind gets in.
Fit foam sleeves on exposed, easy-to-reach pipes in crawl spaces, garages and utility rooms.
Replace weatherstripping and door sweeps on exterior doors near plumbing, like laundry rooms and mudrooms.
Disconnect and drain hoses, and put insulated covers on hose bibs.

Limit the damage if something fails

Find the main water shutoff and make sure it turns. For long absences, shutting off the main and opening a faucet to relieve pressure means a split pipe can only leak what's left in the lines.
Add remote alerts. A Wi-Fi thermostat, a temperature sensor or water leak sensors under sinks and near the water heater can text you if the heat drops or water hits the floor. They only work if the internet stays up, so check the router and plan for outages.
Ask a plumber about automatic water shutoff valves, heat tape on problem pipes, or a full drain-down if the house will go without reliable heat.
Line up a local contact with a key, the shutoff location and a short checklist, so someone can get there fast after a cold snap or a long outage.

Cold snaps while you're there

If you're at the cabin when the temperature drops well below zero, let a thin stream of water run from faucets on exterior walls overnight, keep cabinet doors open and don't turn the heat down at bedtime. Moving water is harder to freeze, and a dripping faucet also relieves pressure building behind an ice plug.

Signs a pipe has frozen

A faucet that gives only a trickle, or nothing at all, while others work
A toilet that won't refill
Frost on an exposed pipe, or a pipe that bulges
Water stains on ceilings or walls, or a damp spot on the floor near plumbing
The sound of running water when nothing is on

What to do if you arrive to a frozen pipe

Shut off the main water valve before the pipe thaws. If a pipe has split, this keeps it from flooding when the ice melts.
Open the faucet the frozen line feeds so pressure can escape.
Never use an open flame, a torch or a propane heater on a pipe. Gentle, indirect warmth from turning up the heat and opening cabinets is far safer.
If water is coming through a ceiling, especially near light fixtures or outlets, turn off that circuit at the breaker and stay clear of wet electrical.
Call a plumber to thaw the line safely and repair any split pipe or fitting.
Take photos of the damage with dates, then contact your insurance company if you need to.
Dry it out. Wet drywall and insulation need to dry fully before repairs. A water damage company can help with larger leaks.

What a handyman can help with

Thawing and repairing pipes is plumbing work. We help on both sides of it:

Before winter: hose bib covers, foam sleeves on easy-to-reach pipes, weatherstripping and door sweeps, sealing small gaps near plumbing, and setting up Wi-Fi so sensors and thermostats stay online through our computer help service
During the season: walk-throughs of vacant cabins and rentals after storms and cold snaps, with photos
After a leak: once the plumbing is fixed and everything is dry, drywall patching, painting touch-ups and trim repairs

Our snow-season prep service covers most of the before-winter list, and cabin and rental turnovers covers check-ins for owners who aren't in town.

When to call a pro

Plumber: frozen or split pipes, leaking shutoff valves, heat tape on pipes, automatic shutoff valves and full drain-downs
Electrician: water near outlets or light fixtures, and new circuits for heat tape
HVAC or gas appliance technician: a furnace or boiler that quits or short-cycles
Water damage company: drying out walls, floors and insulation after a large leak
Us: drafts, door seals, hose bib covers and pipe sleeves before winter, check-ins during it, and drywall, paint and trim repairs after a leak is fixed and dry

Where we help

Call or text (435) 321-2591 Message us on Instagram

Frozen pipes FAQ

Where do pipes usually freeze in a cabin?

Where cold air reaches them: sinks on exterior walls, crawl spaces, bathrooms over garages, hose bibs with hoses still attached, and older additions with thin insulation. Well houses and pump rooms on rural properties are another weak spot.

Should I shut off the water when I leave my cabin for the winter?

For longer absences, shutting off the main and opening a faucet to relieve pressure is one of the best ways to limit damage. Keep the heat on either way. For a full drain-down, call a plumber.

What should I do if I arrive and a pipe is frozen?

Shut off the main water valve before the pipe thaws, open the faucet it feeds, and call a plumber. Never use an open flame or torch on a pipe.

Can you fix a frozen or burst pipe?

No. Thawing and repairing pipes is a job for a plumber. We help before winter with drafts, hose bib covers and pipe sleeves, and after a leak with drywall, paint and trim once everything has dried.

Can you check on my cabin during cold snaps?

Yes. We can walk through after storms or deep cold, check for leaks and heat, and send photos. Call or text (435) 321-2591, or message @kamasvalleyhandyman on Instagram, with your town and what you'd like checked.

We focus on general handyman work and are not a licensed electrical, plumbing or general contracting company. For jobs that need a licensed trade, we'll tell you upfront and point you in the right direction.

Preventing frozen pipes at cabins & second homes